Saturday, June 8, 2024 - The Introduction to Basque Culture

   The day began overcast and warm; I therefore removed a sweater and long-sleeve shirt for our three and a half walking tour led by Laura,our local guide, through the part of the city. She showed us maps and described the people who lived in this part of the world before the Christian Era. Noteworthy to me was information that this was a matriarchy. At marriage a man took his wife's surname and moved into her home. Originally pagans they were Christianized. The cathedral in  Bayonne was first built in Romanesque style. After burning it was rebuilt in Gothic style. Women worshipped on the main floor; men were required to worship from the balcony. So far, I liked that. Homes were painted white with red trim to honor a bishop who was decapitated and thereafter considered holy a d was painted. The Museum of Basque History displayed heavy-appearing wooden furnishings and paintings and useful household tools. 

  I forgot to write that three if us visited the local farmers' market before meeting our local guide. Sweet cherries and large tomatoes and peppers,  and large heads of green and leafy lettuce tempted us. That was outside. Inside the market with walls and roof there was more food including fish and meat.  We took a few minutes to walk around and take it all in and marvel at the wide variety of items for sale and quantities. Local people brought their personal grocery bags on wheels and left withe bags overflowing.  Sellers smiled and talked freely with us. What I have observed so far is that the spoken English of locals is limited,  yet they listen and respond as best as they can.

  Premilla and I joined Dan and Kelly at a local Cafe along the river where chipirones and side are on the menu, that's calamari and hard cider. The chaperones tasted fine, and the hard cider is a Basque social staple. Fermented from local apples the cider contains 6-8% alcohol. I found it dry and not particularly tasty,  but I tasted it.

  We four walked the narrow pedestrian streets in and out of shops. We located particularly the best chocolate  according to RSE.  Premilla and Kelly tasted and purchased a few pieces to enjoy. 


  Mid afternoon we walked across the river to the train station.  A very friendly station employee helped us purchase our tickets on the computer in the waiting room. About three stops distant is the town St Jean de Luz, located on the Bay of Biscay. Walking to the tourist office we felt rain in the form of a light mist. That continued until we arrived back at the hotel, around 10pm when the rain be ame heavier, along with thunder a d lightening.  We were not prepared and our clothes got wet. Oh well. We visited shops on several narrow streets.  Premill found a cute rain jacket. We walked to the beach and along it in the cool wind. Nevertheless it was a beautiful site- a large sand beach a sailboat, and.landmarks.

  On our walk back to the hotel Dan met a couple guys walking g to the rugby match. This sport is very popular here, and recalled groups of people already celebrating mid-day, long before the 9pm match. We ate Italian food at a restaurant next to the hotel, and my glass of sparkling white wine was very good.

  In the hotel we met some of our group talking, and we joined them for  lively conversations until the late hour and need to pack confronted us.



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