Monday, June 10, 2024 - Pamplona

 The breakfast room was  VERY crowded,  conversations noisey.  Nevertheless we managed.  Francisco met us and began our walking a d history tour of Spain and this part of the world before it became Spain. Humor and laughter were liberally sprinkled into the stories, and that kept our attention. We spent time in the cathedral, which he  called ABC another beautiful  cathedral, not another blasted cathedral.  Graves of rulers of this state of Navarra, a striking and controversial crucifix, Roman ruins, and beautiful and noteworthy cloister, as well as rooms offering symbolic experience of light and dark, and personal reflection made this visit a very memorable one.

  We next visited the home of a woman who with her husband now deceased have collected everything possible about bull fighting and the running of the bulls, a nine day even beginning July 7 to celebrate the festival of Fermin, a person killed because of his religion and who now is regarded as a holy person.  Visitors wear white to represent his holiness and red scarves which represent the blood he shed. In the museum we saw the heads of six bulls who were killed in the bull ring, clothing of matadors and other persons who participate in the bull fights, photos, paintings,  and memorabilia filled the homemuseum, usually open only during the nine day festival. We then saw the RSE program of the Camino and the festival. Six bulls run about a half mile from their pens through the streets to the pens at the bull fighting ring. Thousands of people,  mainly young guys run ahead and around the bulls for fun. Some are injured.  Our guide knows that his ten year old son will run within friends when he is around 18, and that his son won't tell his dad before he runs. Six bulls each of nine days, most are killed by the  matador. The president decides, based on the performance of the matador during the 25 minute time of bonding with the bull.

  We enjoyed a glass of wine and several tapas as we discussed bullfighting with Francisco and Augustin and the museum owner. Saying farewell to Francisco we were led to one of many private clubs in the country. Originally for men, women and families are now welcome to join a club. I think it is similar to a social hall owned by a group of people who pay to join and pay yearly dues.  They sign up to use it and bring in their food which they can prepare there. Today Augustin had hired a group of three men to prepare and serve the food. Sangria was on the tables in pitchers. I had only one glass, paella, beef cheeks in gravy on mashed potatoes  and lemon sorbet filled us up and kept our conversations lively and long.

  It was already 330pm. A few of us visited a large department store with a cafeteria and great view of the city from the 7th and top floor. A short nap before our agreed meeting time and we were off again to the large coffee  and tapas Cafe where we had been treated by Francisco for a coffee break this morning. The location has important history and is busy all day. Fifteen of us ordered tapas and wine or beverage the way Augustin had instructed us last evening.  Lively and lengthy conversations kept us socializing into the evenin we finished our time together with ice cream and a slow walk back to the hotel.

It is now dark, and we depart tomorrow morning to walk the Camino and then drive to San Sebastian.


  Gute Nacht


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