Tallinn - First Full Day

Breakfast at 7 AM was a feast. There were aisles and counters filled with breads, cheeses, meats - hot and cold, vegetables, fruits, juices, hot beverages,  pancakes, and eggs in various forms, cereals, nuts, plus more which I probably have forgotten.

I wore long pants and sweater and jacket with hood all day with some sun and wind. I missed wearing gloves or mittens!

We met in the conference for general information from Christine and quick introductions before Dr. Raivo Vetik, professor of comparative politics at Tallinn University spoke to us about the Estonian Society and Politics in the New Geopolitical Context. He has taught at UC Irvine and leaves this week for a visiting professorship at Stanford. He is involved in UN and Estonian human development research. He spoke about the periods 1918-1940, 1991-, and the re-integration of the Russian-speaking residents of the country, about 20% of the population.  Types of citizenship, statelessness, and their meaning were also presented. I took notes! That information precipitated a discussion with Christine and two other group members before supper. I'll write more about that later.

We were then taken by bus to Kadriorg Palace, built for Catherine I of Russia by Peter the Great early in the 1700s. The palace is painted outside in pastels, formal garden and Neptune fountain welcomed us after a walk through a woods. Indoors art from the 16th-20th century was displayed; it is a portion of the Art Museum of Estonia. Additionally the wood floors were beautiful as well as the bas relief wall decor in pastels.

We walked to Old Town to a restaurant in the basement of a town square building for a lunch of pork, sauerkraut, roasted potatoes and berry torte and hot tea. There we were met by Janna who is a locator guide. She walked us around Old Town and told us interesting stories which make up the history of the city of Tallinn. We walked up and down and saw a wedding at the Russian Orthodox church called Alexandee Nevsky church and which the Russians erected on top of a hill during their almost 50 year occupation,  1944-91.

We them entered the Dom church, the Lutheran church used as burial sites for wealthy residents, and when that was no longer permitted where wealthy families hung their coats of arms. These were very large and covered most of the church wall space. I closed my eyes to listen to the 30 minute organ recital of music from Bach to living composers. The organist is a well-known and widely traveled local organist.

The rest of the afternoon and evening were free. Most walked back to the hotel. One member and I decided to walk. We briefly visited a museum at the town wall castle. Methods of protection were displayed showing people's creativity. We walked by a flower market about as long as a block. What great beauty these flowers displayed;  it was difficult not to make a purchase. 

At the hotel I sat in the lobby lookin for dinner companions and found Phillip and Heidi discussing politics with Christine, our guide. I jumped into the lively discussion wanting to know what it was like for her, her parents, grandparents, and relatives to live under the occupation by the Nazis followed by the Communists. We discussed what Putin wants and any insecurity about being invaded again by Putin. What a privilege it was to have a part of this conversation. 

I also asked if I could join Philip and Heidi for supper. Christine was waiting to be picked up by a friend. We three headed first in the wrong direction. We turned around and walked into Old Town where Heidi had made reservations for two.  It was a good 20 minute walk. The restaurant was going to be full but permitted me to sit one the end of a table for two by the window,  The waiter and food were an experience. Flavors and presentation amazed our eyes and palates. We did not discuss politics, rather travel experiences. I am a baby compared with their travel experiences and plans.

When we left it was dark snd chilly. After a few minutes I realized that I had left my jacket at the restaurant. I headed back up there and Phillip was about to crash for arriving at the hotel early in the morning after a 7 hour layover in Helsinki. Heidi decided she had better make sure he made it back to the hotel. I found and put on my jacket and walked in downhill, out of Old Town.  It was quiet on the cobblestone streets, they were well lighted and I began not to recognize anything familiar. 

Nevertheless I kept going hoping to see traffic signals, wide streets, and streetcars. I did, but then I wasn't sure which way to turn at an intersection.  I saw a young couple walking, asked if they spoke English; they did. I asked the direction to the hotel. The young woman stated they were tourists from Portugal but they could get directions from her cell phone.  We were close. They offered to walk with me, and I accepted.  In five minutes we turned a corner and were at the hotel. I gave them each a hug and thanked them profusely.  When in went to bed at 10:45 I said a silent prayer of thanks for the goodness in people.

Nacht, Mom, Susan